Just back: the cost of leisure in Kazakhstan

By Charlie Weatherill 800AM GMT twenty Mar 2010

"Despite attempts to penetrate this country"s Soviet-era official system, we never purebred the passports. Ironically, it"s usually right away we"re withdrawal that this primitive complement acquires a statuesque importance" Photo CORBIS

A square, unshaven face stares at us, framed inside of a filthy perspex immigration kiosk. Bespectacled eyes counterpart at the passports again. Then the mural barks "Nyet. Bolshoi problyema."

Just behind prior winners and how to come in The most appropriate of Just Back Just behind foe conditions and conditions Just Back the new era of Ras Al Hadd Just Back khat out of the bag Just Back twitching in the West African object

Although Kazakh, he addresses us in Russian, confirming the misfortune fears. Despite attempts to penetrate this country"s Soviet-era official system, we never purebred the passports. Ironically, it"s usually right away we"re withdrawal that this primitive complement acquires a statuesque importance, and it"s a "big problem". Our entreaties in handicapped Russian for tolerance tumble on deaf ears. "I verbalise to immigration police," comes the intractable reply.

"Surely there"s a approach we can finalise this now?" Central Asian limit posts are notoriously corrupt; here"s an arise when this could essentially foster us. "Is there a excellent we can pay?"

The bony facilities empty their practical casing. "Wait here!" We"re left in the slight colonnade where feet trade lurches in between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, entrusted to a young, thin infantryman who"s fervent to rehearse his English.

The 3 of us mount and wait, jostled among the consistent upsurge of rugged old women carting frail-looking wooden wheelbarrows of watermelons and jute. In the pell-mell sea of cross-border traffic, we"ve turn the flotsam of no-man"s land.

As the minutes, afterwards hours, pass, we interest to the chaperone"s benevolent side, pity cigarettes prior to tossing them in to the open gulley using to one side us. We discuss it him where we"re from, where we"re going, how most we"ve desired Kazakhstan.

"I think it"s improved for everybody if we finalise this complaint here, no?" I suggest tentatively.

Yellow teeth grin. "Yes."

"Perhaps your trainer can assistance us?"

"Maybe. In Kazakhstan it"s really difficult." He"s eager, but noncommittal.

Eventually, the saturnine trainer court order me in to an office, warily seeking over his shoulder. He calls in the protector, but insists my partner stays outside. This is "man stuff".

Preliminary small-talk accompanies threats to expatriate us. I nod, indicating my high regard of this grave situation, and try my fitness again. "But certainly we can finalise this here?"

Nervously glancing at the door, the trainer shuffles his complicated support in his unsound chair. "We can register your passports now. But you contingency compensate big fine."

Bingo. "How much?"

He indicates that I should attend with his coadjutor to a some-more sly room. Evidently, whilst it"s OK for the arch to distinction from a full of health bribe, it"s not the finished thing for him to experience in the negotiations. I follow my new crony in to an even dustier office, dirty with computer cadavers and office work from glasnost days.

"What currency?" I wheeze conspiratorially once we"re alone, but I"m not still sufficient "Dollars!" bellows the trainer he"s listening by the door.

My crony opens the behest at $100, I suggest $20. We shortly determine on $50. Fortune is kind and I have the right note in my wallet removing shift would be inconceivable.

"Vam spa-seeba!" Stony facilities misuse a Machiavellian laugh as I deposition the check in to his tip drawer. Minutes later, we"re through.

How to come in the subsequent turn

Win �200 spending income in the banking of your preference from the Post Office. Email your entrance of no some-more than 500 difference (with the content in the email itself rather than attached) to justback@telegraph.co.uk by midnight on Wednesday, Mar 24. Click here for some-more report and full conditions and conditions.

The Post Office is Britain"s largest transport income provider. It offers some-more than 70 opposite currencies with 0% commission on all banking and traveller"s cheques. Customers can buy comparison currencies over the opposite at 8,000 branches and all currencies can be systematic for next-day smoothness at 11,500 branches nationwide. Orders can additionally be placed online at www.postoffice.co.uk