By Max Davidson Published: 10:00AM GMT twenty-six February 2010
The Leatherne Bottel, Berkshire Photo: ROBERT SHADBOLT Where? Goring-on-Thames, Berkshire (01491 872667; leathernebottel.co.uk)
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Lunchtime deal: The "affordable oppulance lunch", accessible Monday to Saturday, costs �14.95 for dual courses, �18.50 for three. Terrific worth for food of this calibre.
Are they gratified to see you? Ecstatic. The front-of-house staff are Hungarian and hail guest similar to long-lost relatives.
Is the grill attractive? You bet. Not so most Goring-on-Thames as Gorgeous-on-Thames. The riverside environment would be tough to better.
Are the tables at large spaced? Yes. Other restaurants would squeeze in twice as most tables and hurt the ambience.
Did you similar to the cooking? I am still purring at 3 unblemished courses: smoked haddock with curried potatoes; poached guinea fowl with wild fungus tagliatelle; banana and passion ripened offspring parfait. All stylishly presented, too.
Would a vegetarian starve? There would be a risk of it. Salads apart, veggie options are limited.
Are the loos a bit primitive? Decoratively, yes. The gents" is arrayed with what see similar to pages from a Seventies girlie calendar.
Who else goes there? Lovey-dovey couples, the peculiar C of E vicar and wealthy octogenarians.
Would you go again? Without hesitation. The food, the staff and the environment are all similarly seductive. A genuine special-occasion restaurant.
crunchlunch@telegraph.co.uk T-rating: 9/10Get illusory deals at Wine Shop 
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